Thursday 9th September
Although the day started rather damp, by lunch-time it was lovely, so at 12.50 we happily strolled along to the campsite entrance for a 12.55 coach pick-up. This was part of the arrangement made through the Camping & Caravanning Club and although we had met one or two others on the site who were booked as well, we didn't know how many people were going from here. There were 16 of us, so we realised, along with all the others, just how fortunate we were to get these valuable tickets - we must have all rung up on the same day! The coach was already part-full of German people coming from Mittenwald and it stopped at another village later for a few more. We had been told that we were to make a note of the number plate and description of the coach for when we needed to find it late at night. I was busy taking photos when we arrived, when our driver said it wouldn't be him and not his coach, but that the coach would be here, by the Eise Cafe! (We had some idea of the thousands of people who might be meeting their coach too, but we'll see....) The town of Oberammergau is beautiful, nestling in hills with mountains all around, and although most of the chalets are souvenir and twee shops, they are so attractive with window boxes and beautiful wall paintings and murals. We had a bit of time to spare before the theatre, so went for a walk-about to book ourselves in for a meal during the interval. That done and queued for the loo, we went to our seats in the theatre. It is vast, very wide and we were quite near to the back, but on a raked floor. No photos were allowed during the performance, so this is our only picture of the inside.
The first half (from 2.30 - 5.00) told the story from Jesus' entry into Jerusalem to his arrest. The crowd scenes are amazing (with we think about 1500 people) involving children from about the age of 5 to quite elderly people. The main parts, the acting, the music, the singing are all just perfect. Between some of the scenes are "Living Images" of actors in motionless scenes and as the Textbook says: 'pointing to Old Testament events that are intended to aid theological analysis and serve as foci for meditation. At the same time, emotionally stirring music moves the performance into the realm of an oratorio that immerses the audience into events through the combined power of choir, orchestra and soloists.' ... Oh boy, does it just ....
From 5.00 to 8.00 is the interval and the town comes alive with mainly American voices! A lovely atmosphere with restaurants, cafes and shops buzzing. The s'Wirtshaus Restaurant was where we booked and it proved an excellent choice - a buffet meal of soup, salad, turkey, pork, sausages, fish and dessert - eat as much as you wish. We also took a look in the church and mooched around the shops, finishing with a cup of tea/coffee at a cafe where we could use the loo without the queue at the theatre!
Part 2 followed through Jesus' interrogations, mocking, humiliation, trials and all the events that led to the crucifixion. Too much to describe how real and moving this second part was. What made this so special was the passion that the actors expressed both in support and hatred of Jesus. If only we could have understood the spoken language - we had to rely on our Textbook to follow the script (with torch in second half) but it wasn't able to portray the strength of feelings expressed in the same way. Some of the time we just had to watch the action, even though we didn't know what was being said. The resurrection scene was quite short but with very powerful images of light with Christ coming slowly forward as the final chorus was sung.
Many scenes involved various wildlife - donkey, sheep, goats, doves, horses and 2 beautiful camels that were part of Herod's entourage. All were very well-behaved with just a couple of puddles. The production was amazing with simple props like a tent-like structure being put together by cast for the last supper and the incredible way that the bodies were taken down from the crosses ....
We were very surprised to find that almost 3 hours had passed - and our coach would be leaving at 11! Our small group tried to stay together getting out of the theatre and walked the few yards to the Eise Cafe. We could see 3 'park and ride' buses and behind them, just one coach - OURS! We could only assume that all the tour coaches have to stay in the edge of town car parks - ours being a local pick-up coach, was allowed virtually to the door. So despite the crowds, we rolled home in comfort just before midnight.
Such a wonderfully memorable day.
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